A Visit to Belvan

Some old friends from Poland, Rasikendra and his wife Padma, are visiting here in Vrindavana, and last night we decided to go to Belvan this morning. This village on the other side of the Yamuna River, is the place where Lakshmi (the wife of Vishnu) came to perform austerities so that she could take part in the Rasa Lila dance with Lord Krishna. Unfortunately for her, because she was too attached to her position (of being the Goddess of Fortune, and the high rank of being the wife of Vishnu) she was never actually allowed entry into this confidential pastime of Krishna...the Rasa Dance.

Our reason for going there is that next door to the Lakshmi temple is a Gosalla that some of our cows from "Care for Cows" have been shifted to (do to a lack of space at our other facility.) I called our friend Pawan, who lives at that gosalla and manages it, to arrange a bullock cart to meet us on the other side of the Yamuna. It's a long walk to get to the Village, and with Radhacharan (Rafael) on crutches, it would impossible for him to join us, so Pawan arranged everything for Radhacharan's sake.

After crossing the Yamuna by boat, we boarded the bullock cart, pulled by Tilak, one of our young bulls from Care for Cows. I had previously been on a cart pulled by Tilak, and I tried to explain to my husband and our friends that Tilak is actually still being trained...so sometimes he doesn't do things exactly right. For example, if he is passing by the house of the driver, Omi, he will try to go there (because that's where he gets to eat nice fresh grass) and will pull the cart off the road, much against the driver's desire. Within the first five minutes of the ride, Tilak had to pull the cart up a small incline. In protest Tilak sat down, much to the embarrassment of the driver, and to our great amusement.

When we arrived at the Belvan Gosalla we called over Prem Sagar, who is a famous bull from Care for Cows. Prem is famous for his unbridled affection for humans. He is a quite large bull, but if you approach him he will immediately start to lick your face, without fail. It's quite amusing for the villgers, because they never saw such an affectionate and unaggressive bull before. Because Prem grew up around very affectionate humans who constantly brushed and petted him, Prem is just a big old softee. Our friends were quite amused by him.

After meeting the cows, and feeding them some spinach that I brought for them, we took a short walk to sit under some big trees at the back of the Laksmi temple. It was so hot out, but underneath those trees it was so pleasant and cool. Pawan calls this his "A.C. room". Then we continued on to the Yamuna river (which is another part of it, higher up and very clean...before the sewage of Vrindavan is "deposited" in it). Radhacharan decided that he wanted to take a swim in the river, so he removed his pneumatic boot/cast and went inside. I have to admidt, it was the happiest that I have seen him since the accident. Although he goes out daily to Care for Cows, and sometimes into to town on his bicycle...this was the first serious outing he had been on, and he felt very free in the water.

Afterwards we returned to the Gosalla, and sat in Pawan's sparse little room and ate some grapes and apples together that I brought. A little girl from the village, Puja , came into Pawan's room. Often the village kids come to visit him because he sometimes gives them candies or cookies. This is something that is totally unavailable there...so they have developed a real affection for him! We gave her some grapes to eat, and she was very shy in front of us. First of all, I am 100% sure that it was the first time she ever saw white people up close in her life, and secondly another 100% that it was her first time ever eating grapes.

On the way over to Belvan, Radhacharan had gotten into his head that he would like to eat Brijbasi Rotis. Brijbasis are the village people who were born in the area of Braj Mandal, or the Place where Krishna used to live. Rotis, or Chapatis, are a flat bread cooked on a griddle, and then placed in a fire to puff up. Pawan at this time asked this little girl (in the yellow dress) if she would make us some rotis, and she agreed and took us to her house.

Because it is harvest time for Wheat and Barley, all the men in the village were out in the fields, and only women and children were around. When we arrived at Puja's house, flanked by all the children in the entire neighborhood, the ladies at the house were quite surprised to see 4 white people visiting. They asked if we would like some water (which is a polite thing to ask guests in India...even if a person is poor, they can at offer water to a guest), but Pawan said to the ladies that his friends would like to eat some rotis. (I must add here, that in the village, this is not really rude. In older days of India...which still holds true in the village to this day, it is considered that the arrival of an unexpected guest is like Vishnu himself has come. Therefore it is with great happiness that a household serves a guest, and actually desires to feed them and take care of their needs.) The ladies of the house were so surprised and flustered at the arrival of their "foreigner" guests however that they just kept looking at us, and trying to decide which of the two of us ladies was married to which man, and none of them made a move to the kitchen. After watching the local kids showing off for us for quite some time, we decided to go next door to Omi, the driver's house. When we went there, Omi was quite proud to have us as guests, and started to make some lassi, which is a cooling drink made with yogurt and sugar. After a few minutes Puja came over and said that our rotis were ready, so we returned to her house, with Omi and the pitcher of lassi he made for us.

We were fed some puris (fried breads), potato stuffed puris, and a spicy dhal (bean soup) with potatoes. While we started on this (which was previously cooked) the ladies made fresh hot rotis for us. A brijbasi roti is totally different from the type of roti that is served in restaurants and houses all over India. It is much thicker, and more substantial. I have eaten tons of rotis before, and I have to say without a doubt these were the best I have ever had in my life. There is something quite different in taste and texture of a roti cooked in a regular kitchen on a gas stove, then to a village roti cooked over an open fire (fueled by wood or gobar patty). The natural fuel adds immensely to the taste of the food.

After eating (and drinking the lassi provided by the very pleased Omi), I took some pictures of the children, and the woman making the rotis. Then we left with Pawan and returned home by bullock cart.

All in all it was a really wonderful day. The hospitality of these "poor" villagers is much more cultured and kind then from the richest of city people. In cities, everyone wants something from you. Even here in Vrindavana it's a little crazy how people treat us (white people) as if we are walking wallets. Once I went to a little shop to buy some sugar and the owner of the shop (whom I had never met before) asked me to bring him a wrist watch then next time I went to "my country". I told him to get lost. But in the village, those people didn't want anything from us, they were really happy to serve us. It was without motivation. The next day, Pawan told us that all of the ladies in the village separately approached him and asked that he bring his "friends" to THEIR house next time!

All glories to Village culture!